Flying the Lessons 

Smooth corrections to your stick!  Don't jerk the stick.  You'll lose
both airspeed and control that way.

Experiment!  Nothing bad can happen, and no one minds if you score
badly a few times.  The experiments you perform may well teach you a
trick or two, and will undoubtedly give you a better understanding of
what it means, both intellectually and intuitively, to fly an
airplane.

If you find yourself wanting to try something that the instructor
doesn't want to, go back to free flying and give it a go.


Lesson Hints.....

In spite of his good intentions, our instructor sometimes forgets a
few important tips.  Here's a few hints for flying the lessons (and 
scoring well!):



Level Flight:
        If you can keep the arrow icons off the screen, you are doing
well.  However, you may want to do better than just qualify.  Even if
the icons aren't there, you can still do better....  Keep an eye on
the vertical speed indicator or altimeter to track your altitude changes, 
and try to keep that altitude rock solid.  Keep the VSI as close to level 
as you can - it's good training for the level game.

Rudder Turn:
        Although it might take longer, you might find a slower rudder
turn easier to control.  The faster turns require more rudder, and
more rudder will cause your elevator inputs to roll the plane.  Also,
try to keep an eye on your gauges so you keep your altitude constant.
This means you'll have to look at the gauges and the horizon at the
same time - a truly useful skill to learn.

Level Game:
        We all have different strategies on this one.  I like to first
get my heading, then find out what kind of throttle setting I need to
stay level at my target airspeed.  After I have a good idea about
where I want the throttle, I start hunting the correct altitude (if
you feel lazy, remember the TAB and shift-TAB keys!).

Landing:
        The instructor won't actually ask you to do a landing, but if
you want to try one on your own, I'd suggest that you think of landing
as stalling the plane just a few feet above the ground.  Make sure
that it's a calm day and turn the wind OFF when you first try to land.


GROUP 1       


Inverted Flight:
        This one is just like level, only upside down.  Use your
altitude gauges, except this time when you lose altitude compensate
with forward stick!
        The instructor won't grade you on your rolls, so don't worry
about making them perfect.  He will, however, keep track of your final
heading and altitude, so when you roll to level you may need to watch
where you are going.  If you keep getting points deducted for heading
or altitude, you might try a few two point rolls and then come back to
inverted when you feel a bit more comfortable with the roll to level.
        

Two Point Roll:
        There are a lot of things to try on this one, so I suggest
that you feel free to experiment.  You can pull back a little just
before you start the roll, which will cut down on your altitude loss.
When going from inverted to level, push forward a bit.  Either way,
get that nose above the horizon.
        A little bit of rudder in the same direction as your roll will
smooth out the motion, but remember that you also need to use top
rudder to keep altitude as you go through the knife edge position!
"Top rudder" means rudder in the direction of the sky, so when your
right wing is sticking up, use the right rudder.
        This means that you'll start your rudder in the same direction
as the stick (smooth the roll), but almost immediately switch to
opposite rudder (top rudder- keep altitude).  Luckily, when you roll
from inverted back to level, top rudder is already in the same
direction as your roll, so you don't need to deal with the pedals
quite so much.
        You will find that faster rolls are easier since you just
don't have time to lose much altitude, but it's more difficult to stop
the roll at the right orientation and, I find, a little less rewarding
than a well-done slower roll.  I'd suggest trying to do a few slow
ones after you get the hang of it just so that you can see what kind
of rudder inputs you need.  Your faster rolls will definitely improve
as a result.  Experiment with the rudders.  Maybe a touch of opposite
rudder at the end of a roll will help out the exit back to level
flight....
        Don't skip the inverted point in the middle of the roll!
Major points deducted for that one.


Loop:
        This is a tough one, and a tough one to advise.  I cannot
emphasize the smooth stick motion enough.  If you just jerk the stick
back as quickly as you can, the plane's nose will jerk upwards,
but you'll still be flying straight forward.  The air will pound into
the flat part of the wings and all of your airspeed will vanish.
That's what an "accelerated stall" is all about.  Instead, make it a
smooth pull.  It can still be pretty fast.
        How much should you pull?  How much airspeed should you get?
Watch the demo and see what the instructor does.  Sometimes, as an
experienced pilot, he is a bit reckless, but you'll see that you can
go a little faster than you'd expect and pull a little harder.  Feel
free to learn the limits of the Decathlon - breaking up isn't hard to
do, but neither is repairing the plane.  Feel free to overspeed the
Decathlon, at least a little bit (how about 180?).
        Generally, the instructor will let you pick how big you want
your loop.  He'll try to get you to pull harder if the loop is way too
big, but he'll let you learn just what kinds of loop you can and
cannot get away with the hard way- you might just stall out of a few
loops before reaching the top!  That's okay.  Recover from your stall
and try again, pulling harder this time.
        When the instructor says to float over the top, he means it.
You may have to push the stick forward to keep your loop round!  Try a
few loops without floating and just pull back the whole way, and check
your wireframe in the 3-Way View cockpit.  You'll see the pinch at the
top.  If you are trying to float it and follow the arrows, you
may end up with an "e" shape in your wireframe (exiting the loop
with a pretty low altitude).  This usually indicates that you didn't
have quite enough speed at the top, and stalled during the float.  The
loop curves the right way all around except for that second quarter,
which is a bit sharp.  Get some more speed, and harder initial
pull, or really take to the forward stick on the float.
        If you have gyro effects turned on during the loop lesson,
don't forget a bit of left rudder to counter it (amd if you ever try a
loop in the Sukhoi in free flight, remember that its engine rotates
the other direction!  Use right rudder for those loops...).  
        If the forward/back arrows start to jump back and forth, you
are most likely over-correcting.  The loop is a precision maneuver,
and getting a nice circle in the sky requires a fair amount of
accuracy.  Move the stick a little bit more cautiously at these points.
        The 3D arrow will tend to point way up at the end of the loop.
Follow it- although you are facing forward and level, your momentum is
still carrying you downward.  With a quick nose up at the end, you'll
level your plane much more quickly and in full aerobatics style.

Immelman:
        The key to the Immelman is in the end of the loop and the beginning
of the roll.  You need a whole lot of airspeed at the top, because low-
speed rolls are really tough.
        Start with a fairly tight loop.  You may want to avoid
floating quite as much as you do in the loop lesson, just so that you can
have the airspeed for the roll.  You'll lose some points on the loop,
but maybe you can get them back in a good roll!
        For the roll part, I'd suggest returning to the two-point roll
and trying to take them at the slowest speeds you can handle until you
can do a decent return to level below 100.  You'll need to pitch the
nose of the airplane well away from the ground and use huge amounts of
rudder.  
        You might also try waiting just a little bit longer to start
your roll.  You'll be gaining speed while inverted and that will ease
the roll.  However, it won't quite be a proper Immelman.


Split S:
        Although very similar to the Immelman, you'll probably find
that the roll is the easy part, and the loop is the hard part.
        The roll should not pose much difficulty, since you can take
it at a decent speed.  Not too much speed, mind you, since you could
easily overspeed the plane by the time you finish plummeting towards
the ground.
        If you pull back on the stick to start your loop as much as
you do in the Immelman, you'll be starting a much more ambitious loop
than you will be able to finish.  The loop will start tight, but as
you gain speed it'll get bigger, and no amount of back stick will
correct it.  Start a gentle loop instead and you'll be able to
maintain it.


GROUP 2

Slow Roll:
        Look at the two-point roll hints- it's the same thing without
the delay in the middle!


Knife Edge:
        You need rudder for knife edge.  Lots of rudder. 
        Remember the rudder turn?  Any time you are using both
elevator and rudder at the same time, you'll tend to snap roll.  Play
the rudder turn a little more, and try some faster turns for the
rudder practice.
        For the roll, don't forget to pitch the nose up.  You'll need
the help with altitude even more than you did in the two point roll.
Also, add in that top rudder before you get completely to knife edge-
by then it may be too late!
        Use the elevator to correct any heading errors.
        If you lose the knife edge and can't seem to get it back,
return to level to abort the maneuver and try again.

Four Point Roll:
        Just another roll....  Try knife edge if you have problems
with that part, and two point roll if the inverted part is getting
you.  After doing the four point roll, you might want to go back to
the other rolls and see if they have improved.  I bet they have.

        
Outside Loop:
        You are in the Pitts for this one, because the Decathlon just
can't quite do it.  Don't sweat the rolls, because they aren't really
scored heavily.  The roll to level will affect your heading just like
it did in inverted flight, though.      
        The outside loop keeps the plane in negative G's all through
the maneuver.  Instead of pressing into your seat, you hang from the
straps.  The lift on the wings pushes them down relative to the pilot.
To keep those negative G's all around the loop you'll need forward
stick, except possibly at the top.
        You will want to feel out the limits of the Pitts the same way
you did in the Decathlon for the loop.
        Other than that, I can't help you much.  Read the loop hints
again, and good luck.


Outside Immelman:
        You want even more speed in this one than you did for the outside
loop or Immelman.  You'll find this to be pretty much the hardest
lesson in Group 1, so don't get frustrated.  If you come back to it later,
I won't tell...


GROUP 3

Spin:
        There a bunch of correct ways to fly spins, and they all look
a little different.  When you practice the spin in free flight, you
can tell if you've got a fully developed spin by checking your
airspeed.  If it seems to be staying the same and not increasing,
you've got it.  Once established, you ought to be able to hold the
spin forever (or until you stop hitting the TAB key).  Try it and turn
your smoke on, and check it out from the different cameras.
        In the lesson, you want to hit your rudder when you've got the
stick full back and your nose has just started to drop.  You'll need
to completely kill your throttle to get the stall this fully
developed.  
        Hold the stick back and the rudder at full as you go around,
and recover after one full spin.  To recover, dive at the ground.  You
might be able to force yourself back to level, but you'll still be
stalling, and the maneuver will look sloppy (and the instructor won't
like it).
        Take advantage of the vertical down to correct your heading,
and pull back to vertical.
        



Snap:
        The snap is really just a spin going forward instead of down.
You make it go forward by starting before you stall.  If you try a
free flight snap and just hold it, you'll go into a spin as you lose
airspeed.
        The hardest part of a snap roll is the recovery.  Go ahead and
overshoot initially.  If you end up inverted after the end of the
snap, the instructor will abort the maneuver, but just try again and
exit earlier.  As you get better, try to exit right at the level point
for maximum points.  Don't dive to recover!  That's only for spins.



Climbing Roll:
        Welcome back to the Pitts!  The trick here is to establish the
45 degree line as quickly as possible.  You need the airspeed as you
roll, and every moment you spend going up is bleeding off your energy.
As for the roll itself, do it quickly.  If you get a good 45 degree
line, just pitch the nose up a tad and roll it.
        The roll recovery may well give you trouble, and missing the
final 45 degree line after the roll will cost you points.  Try
watching the side windows in 3 view cockpit for cues to end your roll.
        This is just the 45 degree line.  Wait until you try the
vertical roll!


Reverse Half Cuban:
        Make sure you have the split S and climbing down pretty well
before hitting the reverse half Cuban.  You'll need to hit the 45
degree line quickly, and the roll ends inverted.  Feel free to just
try the half roll on the line over and over, if you like (a trick -
spacebar to ask for a demo, which aborts your current attempt, then
spacebar to cancel the demo).  After the roll, you still need a fair
amount of 45 degree line, so get a fair amount of airspeed.  The side
windows in 3-Way View cockpit may help you end your roll in the right
spot.
        As in the split S, remember to make your initial loop pull
fairly gentle so you can complete the loop drawing the same curve
throughout.  After you've mastered the separate pieces, try to adjust
the length of the line and the size of the loop so that you come out
with a good altitude.


Reverse Cuban:
        Two reverse half Cubans back to back.  The second 45 degree
line will be tougher, as you will have a different airspeed than you
did for the first one.  Since it'll likely be slower, you might want
to work on a few low airspeed climbing rolls.  Other than that, just
practice, practice, practice.


GROUP 4

Half Cuban:
        You can get away with a bigger loop than you can in the
Immelman, because you don't need to level out on the top, and you'll
get plenty of airspeed for your roll on the 45 degree down line.  
        In fact, to make your altitude come out right, you may want to
make that loop just as big as you can.  The down line is hard to hit,
and it only gets worse after recovering from the roll.

Cuban Eight:
        It's the last Cuban you learn, but it's where they all
started.  You need speed for that second loop, and altitude will be
your worst problem.  Just like the reverse Cuban: practice, practice,
practice.  You'll get it.


Competition Turn:
        You may find the competition turn easier than the rudder turn,
especially after you have worked your way up to it.  Make sure that
you separate the rolls and the turn itself into two distinct parts.  I
find that, as in the rudder turn, your roll and your altitude are your
biggest concerns.  Pick an entry speed and work with it.  You'll find
a "sweet spot" of elevator deflection which will keep you at a 60
degree bank and steady altitude.  If you lose altitude, pull back
more.  

Inverted Spin:
        As in the spin, your stall is very important.  Make sure you
are at the lowest throttle setting, full forward stick, and then push
in your rudder.  One spin and recover by diving.

Outside Snap:
        Just a snap roll with negative G's.  Push the stick forward,
full rudder.  It's the recovery that'll get you.  Recover to inverted,
just like you started out, and then don't forget that you still have to
roll to level to finish out the maneuver.  
        The outside snap is called an outside snap because of the
negative G's, not because you are upside down when you start it.  You
could perform a perfectly good inside snap (the normal kind from GROUP
3) while inverted, just as long as the G forces were pressing you into
your seat.


GROUP 5
        The lessons are really tough from here on out, so don't get
frustrated.  These maneuvers are just plain difficult.


Hammerhead:
        This is the first maneuver where you have to establish a
vertical line, and it's not easy.  You want an aggressive pull until
you are pointing straight up at the sky.  I suggest the 3 view cockpit
or even the Wingman external camera (press F7).  If you are listing 
to the left or right, counter with opposite rudder.  Eventually, 
you'll have to get good enough at the line that you won't need much 
rudder, but until then the process of correcting a flawed line will 
help you learn.
        When you've hit the line, your momentum will still be carrying
you forward, so you might want to pull slightly past the vertical line
to counter that motion.  It's just a quick bit of extra back stick as
you hit the line.  You can get a good hammerhead without that
correction, but it's good to get the practice in because you'll want
it for the vertical roll.  You can verify your up-line with the 3 view
wireframe display.
        You want to wait until you are almost out of speed, and then
hit the rudder to flip you over, pivoting around the tip of a wing
almost.  The horizon ought to look perpendicular to where it usually
is when it enters your forward view.  Use your ailerons to correct
any rolling there.
        Listen to the instructor.

Square Loop:
        Remember the hammerhead advice on vertical lines.  You want an
aggressive pull, because you need speed to maintain the inverted flight
at the top of the loop.  Don't float the pull to inverted too much,
either, as that will cost you valuable energy.
        Don't worry if you don't get the inverted part established
right away- the instructor wants you to get the inverted practice at
the top of the loop more than he wants the timing.  When you start to
hit the inverted squarely, the timing will work out and you'll see
some nice square loops in your wireframe!
        You may find that you want to cut throttle on the down line to
avoid losing too much altitude.  You may also want to add it back in
for the pull to level.

Outside Hammerhead:
        The top part of this maneuver is identical to the hammerhead.
The only difference is the outside loops to and from vertical.  Master
those pushes, and it will serve you well in the outside loop.

Outside Square Loop:
        You'll find this maneuver difficult, if only because the Pitts
doesn't like those negative G's.  You know the plane by now, so push
its limits and see what you can do.
        Refer to the square loop if you need to.
        

Tail Slide:
        This maneuver is incredible with smoke on.  Try the demo in an
external camera view and turn the smoke on.
        You've got the same vertical lines here as in the hammerhead.
Cut the throttle entirely after you hit the line.  If you have the
engine gyro effects on, cutting the throttle may roll you a bit.
Counter with some aileron and rudder.
        The goal is to maintain the vertical line well below stall
speed.  In fact, ideally you will actually fall backwards in the plane
before flipping over and falling past the tail.  This maneuver will
require a lot of practice on your vertical lines at ultra-slow speeds.
        On the other hand, even a just passable tailslide with smoke
and an external view will amaze an audience.  Go for free flight and
try it in the Grob - dive for speed, and make it sing.



GROUP 6

Vertical Roll:
        This maneuver may well eat your lunch.  
        First, push the Pitts to its limits and get to vertical with
as much speed as you can squeeze out.  For a decent roll, you NEED to
counter your old forward momentum by pulling past the vertical.  If
you do not counter this motion, the air will blow across your roll and
shake it horribly.  You might try going back to hammerheads and
practicing to counter the motion while staring into the wireframe to
see when you've got it right.
        When you've got the vertical line, hit the roll as soon as the
instructor will let you, and make it fast.  Remember the climbing
roll?  This roll needs to be crisper and faster, and with less
airspeed to spare.
        Get certified on this one and you are truly amazing.

Avalanche:
        Keep in mind that the snap roll at the top of the loop is a
normal snap roll, not an outside snap roll.  I know that you are
inverted, but your plane is under positive G loading when you start
it.  If you were actually sitting in a Pitts, you'd be pressed into
your seat throughout this maneuver.
        Be sure to start your snap fairly early.  If you wait too
long, you'll have lost airspeed and may well wind up in a spin.

Humpty-Bump:
        I find this one a nice break in the midst of the rest of Group
6.  By this time you can pull to vertical and keep some decent speed.
A push over the top, don't forget to float it a bit, then a dive.
You've done all of these elements before.  If you have troubles, try
the outside loop and both square loops again.

Rolling Turn:
        Vertical rolls have nothing on rolling turns.  This maneuver
is murder.  Watch the 3D arrow and try to match it with your plane.
Got it matched?  Then why did you stop turning?
        Start the roll with a little left stick and some left rudder
to get the turn going.  As you bank left, add back stick to keep the
turn going and shift the rudder right to keep the altitude.  Don't hit
knife edge until you are 22.5 degrees off original heading....
        Keep the left stick in as you roll past knife edge to
inverted, but add more right rudder to keep turning.  You should have
a little forward stick to keep your altitude.  At inverted the only
thing turning the plane is the rudder, so it will be pretty strong.  I
suggest trying some free flight inverted rudder turns to practice
this.  We are now 45 degrees off original heading.
        Keep rolling left.  As we come to knife edge again (67.5
degress), the rudder will be almost full left to keep our altitude,
and the forward stick will turn the airplane.
        Finally, come to level.  Hold left rudder until you finish the
turn, but move the stick back again to maintain altitude.  As you hit
level, center stick to stop the roll and a tiny bit of right rudder to
stop the turn.
        I've described the control inputs at four points in the turn.
You'll need to flow smoothly between them in the intermediate
portions.  Yes, this is a more or less simplified description of the
rolling turn.  
        The instructor will let you choose your turn rate
in the rolling turn, and he'll even give you full leeway on changing
in the middle.  He's looking for you to hit knife edge at 22.5 and
67.5 degree through the turn, and inverted at 45 degrees through it.
I find myself stuck in an odd position wondering what to do next, and
I think to myself "What can I do to make the plane go left from here?"
This may mean forward stick, it may mean right rudder.  It may mean
both.  If you find yourself stopped in the turn, ask yourself what
controls you need to make the turn happen.  As you turn, roll to match
the 3D arrow.
        After much practice, you'll be able to get a jerky rolling turn 
into action.  Then work on smoothing it out.
        The best rolling turn I've heard of thus far has been a 7.2.
        



